If Purchasing Western Saddles Check Out Cactus Saddles
If you are in the market for a hand-crafted Western saddle, check out Cactus saddles. With over 150 years experience in saddle-making, the company has a wide range of styles and designs available . Whether your preference is for barrel-racing, bull-dogging, roping or reining, there is bound to be a saddle to suit your tastes.
When buying a new saddle, it is important to purchase one that fits the horse. An ill-fitting saddle will cause saddle sores which can be very slow to heal. Uncomfortable gear makes a horse misbehave. You may think you know the size you want but variations occur with each different make.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The bars of a saddle should be in contact with the horse. This spreads the weight of the rider and gear over a large area. If a horse has prominent, narrow withers, extra padding will be required behind the withers. Well-muscled horses will need a wider tree.
Ideally the horse's croup and wither will be level. A horse with a higher rump will put more pressure on the withers and may require an additional pad. Some horses, especially as they age, develop a swayback. The back dips down more than is normal. A saddle will then make contact with the back only at the front and rear. This can cause rubbing and excessive pressure in these areas. Poorly conditioned horses may also need a bridge pad until they develop better muscling.
The bars and skirts need to be the right length for the horse. Mounts with a short back may need rounded skirts and shorter bars. Saddles on mules sometimes rock because of their very level backs. Most pressure then falls in the middle of the back.
A new saddle should be placed on the back without a blanket. When it is in its right position, it should sit level. You should be able to fit several fingers between the gullet and the wither when the saddle is in place. If a full hand fits in the gullet, the tree is too narrow. If only one finger fits, the tree is too wide.
Ride the horse until he develops a good sweat. On removing the gear there should be no dry areas as these would indicate pressure points. Rubbed or ruffled hair indicates that the saddle is moving about too much. The saddle must be strong enough for the purpose for which it was built. Roping saddles must be able to withstand the pressure of holding a steer. Saddles for gaited horses will sit back off the shoulder. A mule saddle needs straighter bars. Cactus saddles cater for all types of equines.
When buying a new saddle, it is important to purchase one that fits the horse. An ill-fitting saddle will cause saddle sores which can be very slow to heal. Uncomfortable gear makes a horse misbehave. You may think you know the size you want but variations occur with each different make.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The bars of a saddle should be in contact with the horse. This spreads the weight of the rider and gear over a large area. If a horse has prominent, narrow withers, extra padding will be required behind the withers. Well-muscled horses will need a wider tree.
Ideally the horse's croup and wither will be level. A horse with a higher rump will put more pressure on the withers and may require an additional pad. Some horses, especially as they age, develop a swayback. The back dips down more than is normal. A saddle will then make contact with the back only at the front and rear. This can cause rubbing and excessive pressure in these areas. Poorly conditioned horses may also need a bridge pad until they develop better muscling.
The bars and skirts need to be the right length for the horse. Mounts with a short back may need rounded skirts and shorter bars. Saddles on mules sometimes rock because of their very level backs. Most pressure then falls in the middle of the back.
A new saddle should be placed on the back without a blanket. When it is in its right position, it should sit level. You should be able to fit several fingers between the gullet and the wither when the saddle is in place. If a full hand fits in the gullet, the tree is too narrow. If only one finger fits, the tree is too wide.
Ride the horse until he develops a good sweat. On removing the gear there should be no dry areas as these would indicate pressure points. Rubbed or ruffled hair indicates that the saddle is moving about too much. The saddle must be strong enough for the purpose for which it was built. Roping saddles must be able to withstand the pressure of holding a steer. Saddles for gaited horses will sit back off the shoulder. A mule saddle needs straighter bars. Cactus saddles cater for all types of equines.
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