How Patterndrafting Has Changed Designing

By Bertha Wells


Patterndrafting in the world of fashion is a highly skilled and highly developed field of endeavor. Every garment that is made must first be drafted and then constructed. It involves the process of design. It starts with an idea, and that idea grows into a visual drawing.

It included a knowledge of draping and measuring. The key to the being successful was getting these two components as accurate as possible. To achieve this the process needed to be broken down into steps that covered the entire body. A basic block or slope was used to achieve the proper results.

Drawings were made to capture the image to be created. Then, the pattern makers used various tools like the French curve, or the hip curve to make the right shape for the armhole, neckline and hipline. It was very important that they took accurate measurements. Wrong measurements resulted in ill shaped garments.

This part of the process is called grading. The measurements had to be correct for proper sizing. This meant measuring each section and transferring those calculations to a lightweight paper pattern. Mathematics played a very important role in the whole process. Originally, the entire system was done entirely by hand, which took time to complete.

Computers have changed the way the process is done. The technology that is available today, makes it easier to do the entire thing without mistakes. The only errors are at the point of inputting information. If, the information the user puts in is correct the results will be perfect. The professional and the home sewer can have the same results.

There is no more guessing and hoping that the measurements are the correct ones. The system is designed to take everything that is put into the program and produce an accurate result. It will even provide a three dimensional image of the finished garment.

This new technology is called computer aided design, or CAD for short. The CAD is capable of creating designs from beginning to end or modifying existing ones. It will sketch, calculate all of the measurements the users inputs into the computer accurately. The user only has to cut out the finished product and sew the garment.

This breakthrough is extraordinary because in the past this kind of sewing was only available to the very rich, or royalty. The average person could not have the luxury of well fitted garments. Thanks to the likes of Ebenezer Butterick, patterns with different sizing or grading were sold to the public.

A new industry was created with the sale of the new patterns. It also, came about at a very good time. The sewing machine which was previously out of the reach of the home sewer now became affordable. This gave every woman the change to make beautiful garments.

The strides that have been achieved by patterndrafting in the world of fashion have enabled the average home sewer to achieve excellent results in fitting and tailoring. The home sewer can enjoy the beauty of original designs the once only belonged to the world of high fashion. The playing field has been leveled.




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